This line kept going through my head as I made my way back to my house after purchasing 3 chickens for our Christmas dinner. As I hauled my live chicken by its feet through a field, I kept repeating the line, in the manner of Baby in Dirty Dancing: "I carried a watermelon." There are infinitesimal moments that pass everyday, when I am simply living my life, I just happen to be doing it in a West African village. Then there are the times when I strike up a conversation in my Ewe-smattered French, or I squeeze in next to a goat in a bush taxi, or I find myself walking through a field holding a strangely resigned chicken by its feet. Sometimes Africa still feels like a dream. Granted, a dirty, smelly, colorful, difficult, enlightening, educational dream, but a dream nonetheless. I look around every once in awhile and think "how the HELL did I get here?!"
By the same token, I also realize how much I've adapted. Riding in a bush taxi to Lome the other day, I remembered writing in my journal my first day. Things like "I saw my first woman with a baby on her back!" or "ohmigod, that guy has a sewing machine on his head!" I've since realized all you really need to raise a baby is a pagne and you can carry anything on your head (or on a moto, for that matter). As I thought about this, I watched children pass by barefoot and naked, goats wandering the streets and women calling to each other as we drove by. I realized that these sorts of things make up those infinitesimal moments when I'm "just living" my life. They seem ordinary...when did that happen?
Enough of my ruminations. The reason I was buying chickens in the first place was because I hosted 13 volunteers and friends for Christmas. It has been a hard time for many of us, and I think being together is important. Our of sheer boredom I have turned into quite the Holly Hostess, a Martha Stewart on crack, you might say. When all you have in Togo is construction paper and time, it's amazing how many snowmen and snowflakes you can create. I gave up only when I got a blister from my scissors. You may think I'm kidding. I'm not. Christmas went really well. A few people showed up a day early to bake Christmas cookies and decorate the house. People really went all out and it was really nice. We had a big dinner Christmas Eve and then Christmas morning we all opened presents from our Secret Santas. Gifts ranged from a teeny-tiny Titanic tank top (incredible) to Jesus pagne. It was a hard day but we had a good time. Thank you to everyone who sent me packages, it was wonderful to get them and all your holiday wishes.
The day after Christmas, I went with Ashley and her three friends from the States to Anecho, where I held a monkey. I'm not going to lie, it was one of the cooler experiences I've ever had. Her name was Rosaline, and she was really sweet and loved the attention. Pictures below. Happy New Year everyone!


Jesus pagne
Teeny Tiny Titanic Tank Top

"Would you like to touch my monkey?"
Monday, December 31, 2007
"I Carried a Chicken"
Posted by Becka at 7:12 AM 3 comments
Thursday, November 22, 2007
My Birthday
Thanks to everyone who sent birthday wishes! I truly had a great day here in Vogan. My neighbors prepared dinner for me and threw me a small party, and it was a good time. I'll write more about the day later, but here are some pictures. Happy Thanksgiving to all!
My dance partner, Mick
Mawusi loves Sodabe, the local moonshine

Preparing dinner

Posted by Becka at 4:34 AM 0 comments
Tuesday, November 6, 2007
Random Stuff...

I've been going out with my Togolese counterpart, Michel, to some of the small villages around Vogan. We've been visiting middle schools and in general I've just been getting to know the area. I'm going to be starting a Life Skills class at one of the middle schools, so we're trying to pick which one. Below is a picture of a calabash tree. It looks like fruit on steroids. Each one is much bigger than my hand.



Posted by Becka at 3:34 AM 1 comments
Friday, October 5, 2007
Off and Running
Orange Season in Vogan!This week has been quite the rollercoaster, in a good way. Martha moved out, which was sad and surreal (I can't believe that will be me in 2 years!) However, I feel like I'm finally starting to get my feet under me. I was actually busy (aka had at least 1 thing to do each day) and I find that really helps me. A few interesting experiences:
Michel took me to his church service on Sunday. One might imagine, as I did, a service full of energetic music and vibrant colors. One would be wrong. Michel had mentioned that there would be a minister from Nigeria who would be preaching in English. Turns out my French isn't as good as I though. The minister from Nigeria was actually a TV with a VERY bad sound system and a man yelling Ewe over it with a microphone. In order for me to hear the English, the church members promptly kicked people out of the front row for me to sit. This was a nice gesture, but I couldn't understand a word. Then they decided it would be best to give me headphones. So there I was, the yovo in the front row, wearing headphones, a cord reaching over the laps of my Togolese neighbors. The service ended up being an hour and a half message from God (aka scripture study), another half hour "a pieds" (standing and swaying and praying) and then announcements (in Ewe) and a durge-like song from the choir. I was quite out of place and uncomfortable, but how many people can say they've been to a West African Pentacostal church service?
The day Martha left, I attended a festival with David and some Togolese friends. It was labeled "La prix d'independence" but David and I realized it was kind of like the Togolese Grammy Awards (music, not old women like my mom thought). There were groups set up all around the perimeter, dancing and drumming. I truly believe there's nothing more energizing in this world than West African drumming. My face hurt from smiling so much. I was then given a plate of food with very little that I could identify. However, I polished off the best chicken I've had in Togo. When I remarked about it, my friend informed me that it was not, in fact, chicken. There was then a loooooong awards ceremony under a brilliant African sun, but I had an adorable 4 year old boy napping on my lap, so who can complain??
Finally, I started with my young women's group. I was told in stage that drawing women out of their shells to talk about their problems would be difficult. Not the case with these women. Michel had to translate from the Ewe, so it was slow going, but I had a group with some dynamic women. They were open and honest about the prevelence of "patrons" (basically sugar daddies) and the necessity of having one, sometimes just to get money to eat. They discussed the dangers of HIV/AIDS and early pregnancy. It was a great conversation, although I admit the problems are daunting. And I'm realizing more everyday that many, if not all health problems are a direct result of poverty. So how can I help break the cycle?Despite the looming questions, I am beginning to feel more at home as I make friends and find things to do. Vogan is alive with campainging as parliementary elections are to take place ina couple weeks. It's really interesting to see. As a security precaution, I will be staying in Vogan the next few weeks, so texting is the only way I'll hear from you. Feel free to do so....just remember the time difference! As it begins to get chilly for all of you, the cool rainy season is ending here. It's averaging 85 degrees inside with the fan on and raining only once a week!
Posted by Becka at 4:25 AM 5 comments
Saturday, September 22, 2007
Interesting Happenings in Vogan...

Each fits perfectly into my palm and just watching them is endlessly entertaining.

Village continues to be an adjustment and will be even more so when Martha leaves in a week. Then I'll truly be starting my independent service. Due to the awful flooding up North and throughout Africa, they have pushed back the start of school. Over 200,000 people in Northern Ghana alone have been displaced, and Togo was hit really hard as well. What this means for me is that it will be another month before I can really start my health club in the middle schools. I am hoping in the interim to start a young women's group, to talk about the issues that they face, make a couple friends, and get to know some more people in village.
Thank you to everyone who has been sending emails, letters and packages. I have good days and bad and sometimes the homesickness just creeps up out of the blue and hits me like a punch to the gut. But I'm hanging in there and slowly starting to build a life here. I'm inheriting a dog within the next month, Mick (as in Jagger). So that should help with the loneliness. I'm in Lome scoping out the newest batch of trainees...it's nice not to be the newbies anymore!
Posted by Becka at 9:54 AM 0 comments
Thursday, August 30, 2007
More new pictures!
Two days at post and I was bored. So I came back to Lome and now there are new pictures on Flickr. Enjoy!
Posted by Becka at 7:20 AM 0 comments
Sunday, August 26, 2007
Swearing In
I am writing this a few days after swearing in, because this is the first moment of peace I've gotten since I came to Lome. The volunteers know how to have fun and I am exhausted. Good thing I'll have 2 years at post to catch up on sleep.Lome has been quite the culture shock for me. After 3 months in a tiny village, the Western conveniences of Lome really threw me for a loop. There are lots of expats living lives here with a lot of the same comforts of home. We even got a ride in some guy's Lexus yesterday...complete with ipod dock. We have running water at our hotel and real butter with our bread, which is utterly fantastic. The last time we stayed here was on our way from America, and I remember not really liking the food. Now I'm eating my face off at every opportunity. I had 3 full plates of macaroni and cheese the other night. I've lost 10 pounds in country, but I think I've gained at least 5 back in the last 4 days.
Now it's our last day together as a stage. Tomorrow we all head to post. I'm not nervous, I think mostly because I love my house and I know David and Martha will be there. But I will miss the comforts of Lome and my friends from stage. It's amazing how quickly we adapt to our surroundings. I adapted well to Agou-Nyogbo when we were in training, and I fell right back into a more Western culture in Lome. I think Vogan will be a mix of the two. I am really looking forward to getting there and destressing. I feel like I could sleep for 3 days straight.
Ashley and me hitting the keg
Vogan, prefecture VO. Represent.
Look! There are BOYS in our stage!
Partying it up

Posted by Becka at 7:50 AM 4 comments
Saturday, August 11, 2007
Stage
As I sit down to write a blog post, I find it very difficult because I don't know where to begin. How can I possibly start to describe the differences in culture, environment, everyday life? I think this is, besides having spotty internet, the reason I haven't blogged much.
I am coming up on my last week of training before I swear in as a Peace Corps Volunteer. I have been here for 2 months. Sometimes it seems like it has flown by, other times it feels like an eternity. I think about the last time I took a hot shower (in DC) and it feels like a year ago. But I also remember looking at the training schedule and crying, thinking there was no way I could survive 11 weeks, let alone 2 years. But here I am. We lost two girls along the way, but the remaining 13 of us are pretty proud, as we should be. Training has been a whole lot of sitting and listening to lectures (sometimes interesting, usually not), living with a host family, eating unknown food, crapping our pants (not me, thankfully), being eaten by mosquitos (at one point, I had 62 bites below my knees. Take a moment to imagine that), learning French AND the local language, and living in close quarters with 12 other stressed, emotionally charged women. All in all, it's been a challenging 2 months. I will be extremely sad to say goodbye to my host family, especially my mom and my little brother, but I am excited to get to Vogan and begin my work.
What is my work? you ask. Fabulous question. I don't really know in what capacity I will be of use yet. I will be working with a small NGO called CASIEJ, an organization dedicated to educating youth about HIV/AIDS, tuberculosis, malaria and other diseases. Michel, my Togolese counterpart, seems motivated and interesting. He has worked with PCVs before (I am a replacement) and seems really excited to have me.
As you can see from my pictures, my house.is.amazing. I live on the 2nd floor (2 story houses are a rarity here) with a white-tiled terrace that's as big as the rest of my apartment put together. Vogan is a town of about 9,000 people. It has a huge market on Fridays but is small enough the rest of the time to be managable. David, a small enterprise development volunteer, will be placed there as well, so collaboration on projects (and movie nights!) is a possibility.
I have dealth with more homesickness here than I ever could have expected. In addition to wicked culture shock, it's hard to realize that, although I know I am loved and missed at home, I am on my own. I had to do the same in Italy, but it was not compounded with culture shock the way it is here. As a white person in West Africa, it is ALWAYS apparent that I am a foreigner. Things in the culture continue to surprise me every day, and we volunteers are grappling with all this without the constant reassurance of our support system, our safety nets. Which can be pretty scary. But then something will happen, like I'll notice the clouds rolling in over Mt Agou, or a singing, drumming, colorful funeral procession will march by. Then I'm reminded that even though sometimes I feel like I'm falling, I'm having quite the adventure.
So I guess that's training. Thanks so much to those of you that have sent letters. Although emails are deeply appreciated, mail day is by far the highlight of our weeks here. Keep it coming. I miss you all!
Posted by Becka at 1:08 PM 2 comments
Monday, July 30, 2007
A Glimpse into my day
(Written on July 8 but not posted until July 30)
I thought I'd give you some idea of what a day is like here in my village, although that will be changing soon when I am sworn in and begin working in Vogan.
Today is Sunday and I had a really good day. I slept in until 7(!), which is about two hours longer than normal. My rooster was kind and didn't start squawking until about 7:30. I rallied and took my bucket bath cold (after 6:30 in the morning my mom seems to boycott heating the water for me). It's been downright chilly here lately (like, in the 60's), which makes for pleasant sleeping but not so pleasant for bucket bathing.
I had Quaker Oats for breakfast. What's funny about the oatmeal is that they actually call it "Quaker Oats." However, in the back woods of African, the French has morphed "Quaker Oats" into sounding like "Cacaway." Since "Caca" means "poop" in French, it took me a little while to catch on the first time my mom asked me if I wanted any! So, I ate my Cacaway and then played out in the compound with Jonas, my little brother. (See Pictures)
I have other siblings beside Jonas (6 in total), but I have a harder time playing with the older kids. Once out of the toddler stage here, kids begin to work. They are fascinated by me, but their laughter and amusement doesn't come as naturally as it does to Jonas. He's still a baby (1 1/2) and therefore doesn't yet have the gravitas that the others seem to. It's also hard, since I don't speak Ewe and the kids who haven't started school don't know French. My little 7 year old sister Patricia helped me do my laundry today. She's so much better at it than I am! I felt bad that she was helping, but all I could say was "thank you" over and over again, because that's the extent of my Ewe. Jonas, however, lights up my day. When I come home from school he runs as fast as he can to give me a hug. I've taught him "dancer" in French and then we dance. He actually knows the word now, so when I say it he starts jumping around. He's been a savior to my mood many times.
So, back to my day. I brought out my sheets to be washed and I was completely helpless. I've gotten okay at washing clothes, although all four of my knuckles on one hand bleed every time. But I was at a loss on how to do my sheets, so my mom basically did them for me. Here's how washing goes:
- Two buckets, one cleaning, one rinsing
- Place clothes in first and cover with water
- Scrub the crap out of each piece with a technique I've yet to figure out without making myself bleed.
- Empty water, refill bucket, start all over
- After second washing, repeat if desired. (The second washing is NOT optional)
- Rinse by basically washing everything, just without soap
- Empty water, rinse again
- Ring the crap out of clothes
- Slap and snap clothes and place on line
- Remove one-half hour later when it starts to pour
This is why basically nothing I own fits anymore. What I wouldn't give for a dryer. Oh, and also I've lost a good 5 pounds or so, so that doesn't help.
I've been really adventurous about food (for me, anyway) and tried foufou for the first time today. I do NOT understand the appeal. Basically, one boils the yams until soft, then you just pound it in this huge mortar and pestle until it reaches the desired gooey, gummy consistency. I ate with my hands for the first time today (not my left), but mostly 'cause there's no other way to eat it. Luckily, my mom makes an awesome peanut sauce with tofu, so I was okay. I'll keep trying to like it, but I'm not making any promises.
I hope this gives you some insight into my daily life here. Please keep your cards and letters coming. Getting mail is very exciting!
Posted by Becka at 9:05 AM 1 comments
Saturday, July 28, 2007
Pictures!
Pictures, pictures, finally pictures! Click on my link at right to access the few I've had time to upload. The internet in Togo is not the best, in case you haven't noticed. Spent the week at my site, Vogan, and as you will see, my house is amazing. I can't wait for the last 3 weeks of training to be over so I can head out to post. I love and miss you all!
Posted by Becka at 8:59 AM 4 comments
Saturday, June 23, 2007
Im' sitting in an internet cafe in Kpalime, the closest big town to our village, and half our group is in tears cause we're all talking to home for the first time in a week. It has been pretty difficult, but on the upside I walk to my training in the morning and realize that Im going to lessons in a village in Africa, which is pretty damn cool. We're in the foothills of the largest mountain in Togo, Mt Agou, which makes for a pretty paradise-like area, if it werent for the malarial mosquitos, the latrine (read: a hole in the ground with a box on top), the huge spiders, the amoebas and the parasites...
My host family is really nice. I have a little buliding in the compound to myself. Families here are large and live in buildings surrounding a central courtyard. So my family lives around the courtyard. I have a mom, a dad, 4 siblings, and then another couple who have 2 kids. At any one time there are about 10 kids running around my compond chasing after me and yelling "yovo!" (which means white person) and waving at me. Sometimes they are the only things that make my day a little better. I'm learning french really quickly, which is good. I like the language and I'm actually learning a little Ewe as well, the local language.
My host family is nice and cooks good stuff that I can eat, and theres a light in my latrine, which is REALLY exciting because it means no cockroaches so far!!!! We have no cell reception and no internet in my village but today was our afternoon off so we all came to Kpalime (the largest close town) to get calls from home. We're all a mess now cause we talked to parents, etc. which is really hard when you're homesick. My village is small but I have electricity in my rooms (very exciting). Since we cant drink the water here,everything seems to revolve around getting water, filtering water, brushing teeth with filtered water, staying hydrated....Ive never thought about water so much in my life. Im exhausted partly because Im trying to stay healthy, partly cause Im physically tired, but mostly cause I'm emotionally and mentally exhausted. I have to speak french with my host family, and I'm learning phrases in the local language, Ewe, at the same time.
Posted by Becka at 1:46 PM 6 comments
Tuesday, June 12, 2007
Thursday, May 24, 2007
15 Days Togo....(that never gets old)
With 15 days and counting, I have officially ended my Goodbye Tour and am at home in Philly, waiting for two highly anticipated guests. I am learning how to put my tent together (I don't DO camping) and I stand back, amazed, at how much gear I have. I wanted to let you all know that the Peace Corps has informed us that we will be spending our 11 weeks of training in homestays in a village outside of Kpalimé (we're not supposed to say exactly where for security reasons. I feel so important). If you look at a map, Kpalimé is north of Lomé on the border with Ghana. Apparently it's in the "beautiful green and mountainous Plateau Region" of Togo. I will be attending training sessions in "Language, Cross Culture, Technical, Personal Health and Safety, and Bicycle Riding and Maintenance in various places (e.g. under a tree, in a school classroom or in one of your homes)." Bicycle riding under a tree. This is my job, how cool is that?
Posted by Becka at 8:50 AM 6 comments
Sunday, April 29, 2007
Who Says Saying Goodbye Can't Be Fun?

Thanks to my dear friend Kate, I had a fabulous going away party last night. As you can see from the pictures, I think everyone had a great time. Thank you to everyone who came. It was really important to me to have everyone together, and I really had an amazing time. I love you all!

Posted by Becka at 10:46 AM 0 comments
Wednesday, April 25, 2007
Gettin' To Be About That Time...
A crappy week last week convinced me that I was ready to leave Boston. A great week this week has me torn in half. As the weather gets nicer, Boston comes alive. There's softball and Frisbee and whiffle ball in the park across from our apartment. My room is sunny. My cat is happy in the open window. I have a slight sunburn from lying out in the park with some great roommates. It's hard to imagine leaving it all behind. I'm in the middle of packing up my office since Friday is my last day at the Joslin. Saturday is my going away party, and the realization that I'm leaving has hit me like a Mac truck. Friday I'll say goodbye to coworkers who have become friends over the last two years. I know I've made the right decision. I am excited, nervous, scared, happy...but above all I know I'm doing the right thing, despite the moments when it's hard to breathe. Today it's a little harder to breathe.
Posted by Becka at 3:50 PM 3 comments
Sunday, April 1, 2007
Assignment
I thought you all might like to know what I'm supposed to be doing in Togo. Below is my assignment as the PC describes it. I've heard from many PCV and RPCV (Returned Peace Corps Volunteers) that the original description doesn't necessarily match what you actually do. But this will give everyone a little more of an idea. This material is all property of the Peace Corps.
Program: Community Health Expansion and AIDS Prevention (CHAP)
Job Title: Heath and AIDS Prevention Extension Agent (imagine that)
Primary Duties:
- Heath services management improvement
- Community health promotion
- Health education
- Youth education on population issues and HIV/AIDS/STI prevention
- Community development
Here's an idea about where I will probably be living:
- Based in a village or small town. Villages general range from 500-3,000 people and are often only accessible by dirt road. There will most likely be a small clinic and perhaps a primary school
Cool, huh? There is a lot more information that goes into greater depth, so if you want to know more, just ask. I'm going to add some links for people who want to read more about Togo and/or the PC.
Posted by Becka at 10:49 AM 4 comments
Friday, March 30, 2007
10 Weeks from Today
I board my plane to Togo. I found someone to sublet my apartment, I handed in my letter of resignation. I guess this means I actually have to go! I will be moving out of my apartment and away from Boston in 5 weeks, and I leave work in 4. I see this as sort of a test entry since nothing too exciting is happening now, but I'm new to the blogging world and am stressing about how to compose this stuff. I need to start working on my witty observations about the world around me. More to come as I begin to pack and do all of that fancy stuff. I'm hoping to have a little get together in Boston the weekend of the 28th for my friends here. And the goodbyes begin...
Posted by Becka at 10:04 AM 0 comments








